Free standing kitchen cabinets – Some DIY owners risk losing their crockery and glass by fitting the wall cabinet incorrectly. Because loaded kitchen shutters are heavy, attaching them through plaster with tilting bolts is the wrong way to deal with the job. Always use a control detector to locate hidden studs and attach the cabinet to the controls with at least two strong fasteners screwed through the back of the cabinet two inches from the top of the unit.
Slide an electronic control detector over the wall; the instrument lights or beeps when you reach the edge of a tap. Mark the center of the lines on the wall with a pencil. Measure the distance from the edge of the free standing kitchen cabinets to the two marks with a steel tape measure. Subtract the thickness of the cabinet sidewall, transfer stud locations on the inside rear surface of the cabinet and mark the position of four mounting holes with a pencil.
Drill four 3/16 inch mounting holes through the marked points on the back of the cabinet with a screwdriver / screwdriver. Lift the cabinet in place, place a water pass inside the free standing kitchen cabinets and center the bubble. Mark the position of the attachment points exactly on the wall by drilling shallow pilot holes in the plaster through existing holes in the cabinet, using the same drill. Drill four 3/16 inch pilot holes through plaster and metal controls. Keep the drill / drive at right angles to the wall in two directions while doing it, and use a sharp drill tip. Enlarge the pilot hole in the wall and through metal bars with a sharp 3/8 inch metal spiral drill.